Monday, March 19, 2007

Kolkata (Calcutta)

Garbage collectors - Calcutta

Victoria memorial - Calcutta

Friday, March 16, 2007

The ghats - Varanasi

Varanasi

My guesthouse-Varanasi

Varanasi

Wood vendor near Manikarnka ghat (burning ghat) - Varanasi

Varanasi



Varanasi. It's one of the oldest inhabited cities on earth, the city of Shiva, and the center of the hindu universe. It's an impossible place to describe to someone who hasn't experienced India. Cows, dogs, monkeys, people, bicycles and motorbikes share the narrow maze of twisting alley ways of the old city. Ancient trees grow literally into and out of the walls of ancient buildings. People are publicly burned at the cremation ghats on the banks of the Ganges. It's full power India. Despite the absurdity and craziness (to western eyes) of various activities that occur here, I've found the general atmosphere to be quite subdued, especially while wandering the ghats (giant staircases descending into the Ganges.) Apart from an unpleasant exchange with an aggressive scam artist near the burning ghats, and the usual offers of drugs, trinkets and boatrides "very cheap! you first customer today, I give good price!" I've been left very much to my own devices to discover the city.

Laxmanjhula Bridge over the Ganges - Rishikesh

Rishikesh

Hanuman(the bodybuilder monkey) and Rama (Blue), two important hindu gods. - Rishikesh

Lightning in Rishikesh


Rishikesh was.... ummmm... ok, I'll admit it. Rishikesh was a bit of a disappointment. It sounds great to hear it described: a town tucked into the foothills of the Himalayas along a clean and beautiful stretch of the Ganges where yoga is offered just about everywhere.
To me, it felt like a giant new-age shopping mall, full of western cafe latte wannabe yogis, hippy clothing shops, and broadband internet cafes. I did some yoga, but the market is so flooded with instructors (virtualy every hotel offers a class) that it is difficult to know where to start looking. The classes that I attended in Rishikesh did not begin to approach the quality of instruction I recieved in Arambol.
I went to a consultation with an ayurvedic doctor and got myself analysed. Apparently I'm batha-pitha (composed of fire and air.....) Interesting. I watched a crazy lightning storm and went for some walks up the Ganges.
Don't get me wrong, it was nice. It just wasn't that nice.
Sarnath
There's always something interesting to look at while traveling by train in India.

Tomorrow morning I will explore Sarnath (10km north of Varanasi), the place where the Buddha gave his first sermon. In the evening I board a train for Calcutta. Next stop, city of joy!

Sunday, March 04, 2007

Holy Holi!

hahaha! some sucker tourist getting powdered.

CRAP.

Hmmmmmmm.....


It's quite interesting to see how one's perceptions of a place can change over time. Delhi once seemed crazy, noisy, dirty, full of hassles and a little out of control. Now, a little under four months later, it's clean and nice and easy to get around in... I've changed.
After an epic 42 hours of train travel (there is never fear of boredom when riding second class in this country), I arrived back in the capital on the day before Holi, a water and colour festival. Those who wish to remain clean during Holi had best stay inside. Gangs of kids armed with dye filled water balloons and water pistols attack anyone who looks remotely clean, while everyone else walks around throwing brightly coloured powders on everything that moves (and lots of things that don't move too.) I threw myself into it and had a great time.